When I was in my early twenties I lived for a year in Fells Point on Alliceanna Street, literally right next to the H&S Bakery. I will forever associate Saturday nights with rye bread. At that time, Fells was in major transition. There were a lot of houses that had been renovated, but there were a lot more vacant buildings and rundown houses. On more than one occasion I walked out my door to someone sleeping on my front step. There were a handful of places to get a relatively decent bite to eat, but most of the places in Fells were rundown watering holes. Nevertheless, it was a great place to live in my early 20’s.
In 1997, I moved out of the city and was pulled south toward Washington. Over the past 12 years, I’ve spent very little time in Fells Point. I’ve made it back to the area only about 10 times. My recollection of Fells was that it was a place where people went to party and I wasn’t going to do that and get behind the wheel.
Still on a few of those trips I noticed that the neighborhood was really changing, largely for the better, though I suspect there are people who lived their whole lives there who would argue. People like Stosh, who lived in a row home near me. Stosh was an older gentleman who spent most of his days feeding corn to the local pigeon population and kind of mumbling to himself in Polish. He was a kind gentle man as I remember. At first he was kind of frightening, but after I’d lived there for a while he was simply part of the scene and harmless.
Last night, we met up with my extended family for dinner at Mezze on Thames Street. Mrs. TKD and I got there a little early so we walked around a bit. Fells has really come a long way since I lived there. There are still plenty of bars, but there are a lot more restaurants. And they look to be pretty good restaurants, judging by their menus and the looks of the places. (Now, I know you can’t judge a book by its, cover, but a quick glance at these places suggested they were a different caliber than the eateries that were there 10 years ago.)
At any rate, Mrs. TKD and I had an amazing dinner with the family at Mezze. I truly would not have believed that you could get such a good meal in Fells Point before last night. I have a feeling that I’m going to need to go back and give a few of the other new places a try.